We have seen the smallest 1-2 psi boost leak takeaway around 35 hp at the wheels on a 700 HP car to give you an idea. Most street driven cars rely heavily on a Idle Air Control Valve (IAC) in the throttle body and even the slightest leak will affect your car's ability to start and idle property. Checking each coupler, clamp, gasket, and even as far as the seals on the throttle body shaft.

You need to fully test the system from the source (turbo) to the intake manifold. Having 'worm gear' style clams tend to loosen over time and promote leaks that might pop up after tuning as well. Having the proper sized couplers, pipe transitions and quality 'T-Bolt' clamps is essential in getting your car dialed in and tuned. A properly sealed and leak free charge pipe system is very important.

At least 50% of forced induction tuning issues I see on the dyno are from boost leaks.

For example, if you have a 800+ HP Drag Car built, I expect you to know what your piston to wall clearance was set at by your machinist, or the head gasket thickness.īoost leak Test/ Intercooler/ Piping/ Throttle Body/Intake Manifold: The more you know, the less likely for problems. If you don’t know what brands were used in your build, or the specs on the parts used in your setup, this makes it harder to do my job since generally I am not the one who recommended which parts you should use or did the build myself. As a tuner, a lot of my job requires guessing and assuming if its not addressed, and in order to eliminate as many assumptions and make as few guesses as I need to make, I can tune your car more effectively and safely and at the same time make the most power the setup can deliver.

It is always in the customer’s best interest to have a thorough and detailed understanding of all the parts in any setup and exact details of the build.

Customers must sign our Dyno waiver HERE before running car on dyno.

Pro series drag racing mustang tune